I was desperate to go on a ferry at some point, what with New York being a watery place, so we went to the East Ferry stop at Dumbo and we asked to buy a ticket. Buying a ticket in the queue is not possible, so a delightful man told us we could buy tickets “over there” as he wildly pointed in every direction, even the water. The ferry criss-crossed the river to Manhattan on another glorious day. Seeing the skyscrapers loom into view over the water was wonderful as there’s so much of it, though it does give you a chance to see how many of the skyscrapers look pretty rubbish. For every UN building, a symbol of architectural perfection, there are plenty of dusty and grey blocks that offer nothing to the skyline whatsoever.
An example of a truly awful building I will pick entirely at random is Trump World Tower, which is a big slap of blah. Totally ugly. We walked and walked through midtown, and it really is a boring part of the city with little in the way of diversion. As we made our way down to the East village, things livened up and the city started to look exciting again. We met some friends that live in New York and we celebrated with moreish apple sangrias and ate well for a small fee at David’s Cafe. Eating outside in the sunshine, in late October, felt quite magical but also a bit odd. After this, we explored Grand Central and I pretended I was in Carlito’s Way, but in a supporting role where I didn’t get killed. Other New York directors are available, but Brian De Palma does it for me.
We tried to see the film Aftersun at the Lincoln Center but arrived a few minutes late. The cinema there doesn’t show trailers and ads so while that was sad for us, it’s a benefit for anyone in New York. The Lincoln Center and surroundings are beautiful and I wandered around trying to recall what the complex reminded me of, and it’s ever so slightly like Kim Il-Sung Square in glamorous Pyongyang. I am sure any Republicans reading this (the chance of that is close to zero) will be livid that I dare say an arts centre in New York looks a bit communist, but that’s free speech for you. Also, Republicans and arts centres doesn’t seem to make sense in a sentence.
In the absence of a film to watch, we walked to Central Park which we spent some time in but saw just a fraction of the park. It was remarkable to see the skyline wrap around the park but then a few minutes walk away you feel far away from the city but never far from Horse turd. The new pencil thin skyscrapers around 57th street are an odd bunch. They almost work but at the same time absolutely wreck the views of the older buildings such as Essex House and the elegant tower just by Grand Army Plaza. Here, the super rich live a life of luxury but also in a building that sways in the wind and regularly leaks. This is some minor compensation for the beautiful views that are no more.
After the park, we walked through theatreland. It was both impressive and oppressive; the sheer busyness and use of lights was overpowering and also struck me as a reminder that while Europe is turning off plenty of lights to conserve energy (though not the UK, because we don’t have a functioning government) America has no such need and if anything, was hurling light and energy in our faces. The sensory overload got a bit much and after a while we felt the need to escape and find a quieter street. Walking past the Radio City hall was somehow exciting just like the first time.
We strolled to a cocktail bar I was really interested in visiting called The Campbell Apartment, nestled in Grand Central Station. It is a beautiful wood panelled bar that is the epitome of relaxation. It is a delight of candles and low lighting, with attentive staff just waiting to raid your wallet for an exceptional cocktail. I read up on the history of the room and it has had an interesting past. It was used initially as an office by John W Campbell who worked at New York Central railroad, then it was used as a gun store for the railway police and even a prison for a short period. As a prison, I suspect the cocktails were thin on the ground. It genuinely feels a part of the history of the city and a wonderful place to have a break from the hustle and bustle of the city. I’d say that The Campbell Apartment feels like a must-do in New York if you like cocktails and sinking into blissfully comfortable chairs, but book in advance.
Day 4
Our fourth day was another busy one of sightseeing, with the New York public library being the architectural highlight. We joined a tour and a fast-talking-fast-sleeping (her words) New Yorker took us around the building she clearly adored. We were told that the building was created in a beaux arts style many times and was designed to be a genuine palace of the people. Much of the marble was of the highest quality from Vermont and some marble from the same quarry that brought you icons such as the Athens Parthenon. 60% of the marble was sent back, such was the architect’s obsession with luxury. They bought lights from Tiffany and even the waste paper baskets were made to order. It is a stunning building. The main reading room is sensational and one of the best I have ever seen. I am always a fan of great municipal architecture and seeing people researching and reading in such a refined space brought me great joy.
Bryant park, just outside the library, used to be known for drug users congregating there but now it’s full of food stalls and people playing chess, which shows you how much New York has changed over the years. After the library, we went to the High Line, old rail tracks converted to a panoramic elevated walkway through the city. It was a very busy tourist site with attendant coffee stalls but also the best value stall in all of the city; I bought 3 good quality fridge magnets for $5. I think it might be, alongside metro tickets, the only other good value in the city. We had planned on going into the Whitney museum but we were tired by all the walking about so we went to see the Oculus, designed by Calatrava. It looks like an incredible fish skeleton from the outside and on the inside, the vaulted ceiling is a modern take on a cathedral. And lo, Calatrava has squared the circle of turning shopping into a religion. In true Calatrava form, the floor already looks knackered but at least bits of the building didn’t fall on me. It was supposed to cost $2bn but it ended up costing $4bn, so it wasn’t the easiest of structures to build but it’s a sensational landmark whichever way you look at it. When standing by Oculus and being so close to Ground zero, it’s astonishing to see the changes that have happened to New York since 2001.
For our evening’s entertainment we went to Nitehawk cinema by Prospect Park. We wanted to experience an all-American cinema so naturally chose to see Aftersun, which is as quiet a film as you can imagine, with Paul Mescal being beautiful in Scottish. It’s a stunning film that requires you to give all your attention to the screen. Unfortunately, Nitekawk cinema does something absolutely mindboggling; you can order food at your seat and throughout the incredibly quiet and delicate movie patrons were bought giant plates of food that are designed to be eaten very sloppily. The staff, it being Halloween, were wearing massive pointy witch hats. So, the pointy hats shuffled along the rows of seats to take orders, then deliver food, then take plates and then, 30 minutes before the film, take payment and then come back with receipts and bits of paper to sign because America struggles with the ease and simplicity of contactless. I didn’t know where to start on my indignation. The near-constant interruption made me wonder if the cinema owners hate film. And yet, despite the trauma, the film was just the most gorgeous thing. Luckily for Nitehawk, the nearby Provini restaurant was an absolutely delightful Italian joint that helped me regain my composure and stop me writing an entirely devastating letter to the cinema owners.
